Perfect Flavor

Aebleskivers. When I came across the cast iron pan by the same name, I had never before encountered such a name and concept. What are they?

In essence, aebleskivers are pancake balls that, when cooked in oil in this very special pan, fluff up in the shape of perfect little globes that get eaten so fast once made that one can hardly keep a full plate on the table!

As seems to be usual for us, Colin and I purchased an aebleskiver pan long before they started to seemingly become popular. This past holiday season saw shelves filled with practically a different aebleskiver pan for each different recipe. I am here to say that you need just one pan and one recipe. This recipe, altered slightly to my specifications and desires, comes directly from the official Lodge Cast Iron cookbook entitled, “A Skillet Full of Traditional Southern Lodge Cast Iron Recipes & Memories.” This recipe was originally written by Sarah Kirkwood Lodge of the original Lodge family.

Here’s the recipe in all its delicious glory. You’ll find that these little pancake balls have a crispy, buttery texture on the outside with a doughnut-like, buttery, chewy texture on the inside. They really are nothing short of heavenly, and if you happen to have a group of grumpy kids or a husband who’s had a long week, there is nothing like a batch of aebleskivers to get everyone back on cloud 9!

Aebleskivers

Ingredients

4 eggs separated

2 tablespoons organic cane sugar

2 cups unbleached all purpose flour (local is best, but King Arthur red bag will work)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 stick butter, melted

scant 2 cups whole milk

Method: please read all the way through before beginning

1. Melt butter slowly in a small saucepan and remove from heat when stick is almost melted but not quite. Swirl in the saucepan and you will have accomplished two things: melted the rest of the stick AND maintained a low enough temperature with the butter to not cook the eggs once added to the batter.

2. In the meantime, separate your eggs: yolks into a medium sized bowl, whites into the bowl of a mixer or just a separate medium bowl, making sure that your whites are free of any trace of yolk or other debris (except salt, see below), as any foreign ingredient other than the white itself will inhibit the whites’ ability to froth up and beat properly. Add the salt to your whites, which will help them beat up to an even stiffer and more stable peak.

3. Hand whisk your yolks until thickened and light in color. Add your sugar and continue to whisk until even thicker and lemon colored.

4. Combine dry ingredients (flour, baking powder) in a small bowl and retain your measuring cup in this bowl.

5. Measure milk into a glass measuring cup meant for liquid measure and set aside.

6. With your whisk in hand, begin to add dry ingredients 1/4 cup at a time and alternate with milk 1/4 cup at a time. This will aid in developing the cake-like structure of this batter. Also, and perhaps most importantly, if you’re a lump-freak like me, adding your ingredients alternatively and little by little this way will ensure that your batter will be lump free if you’re whisking vigorously as you add each ingredient.

7. Once all ingredients have been added, fold in melted butter with a large rubber spatula until just mixed.

8. In three batches, add your egg whites (which you could have had beating while preparing the batter), folding in slowly and gently.

***Now is when I like to add a little extra magic: Combine in a small cereal bowl 1/2 cup organic cane sugar with 1 teaspoon (or more depending on taste) cinnamon. Mix and set near your pan.

9. Heat your aebleskiver pan over medium heat and pour 1/2-1 teaspoon vegetable oil into each well. Allow oil to heat enough for frying. If your oil is not hot enough when you add your batter, the batter will soak up the oil before it has the chance to bake, and will be heavy and greasy. If you’re unsure of when the temperature has reached the right point, you’ll just have to do what I do: sacrifice a poor aebleskiver individual first and take a look at how it bakes, then proceed with the others.

10. I spoon out the batter with a medium-sized cookie/ice cream scoop, which helps make clean up a little easier and ensures that each ball is the same size. After the edges begin to look brown, 3 minutes or so, I use a fork to gently turn each ball over so that the batter side can form and cook. Basically, you’re going for a perfect sphere, so turning your ball over before all of the batter in the center is cooked means that the rest of the raw batter will mold to the well in the pan and thus create a perfect circle of decadence.

11. Remove aebleskivers one by one, rolling each in your cinnamon-sugar mixture until coated, then place on your breakfast dish.

12. When repeating cooking of all the batter, you may need to adjust your stove top temperature. I find that for my gas range, I must reduce the heat to low as time goes by because the pan tends to get very hot and my batter has the tendency to burn if I do not monitor the temperature very closely. Also make sure to add a new round of oil to your pan every second-third batch.

Once my first batch is done, I holler at the kids and wonderful husband to come in and eat. Usually by the time I finish each consecutive batch they are finished with the plate that came before. There are days when they are not as hungry, so I do not make all the batter into aebleskivers at once. Instead, I’ll use about half of the batter up and then make more aebleskivers the next morning or the morning after.

This batter makes about 40 pancake balls and can be kept in the fridge for up to three days.

Incidentally, a well-seasoned cast iron aebleskiver pan is the best (see my previous cast iron post), and cheapest, option. There are some nonstick options out there, which as usual, I do not trust both for their lack of long-term nonstick capabilities but also for the fact that teflon scares me. If you cannot locate the proper pan, consider this: the recipe recounted above can also be used to make waffles that are crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside, as well as pancakes AND pancake puffs (or special pancake as my kids call it, which is aebleskiver batter baked in a buttered glass dish in a 375 degree oven until puffy and golden).

Yum, now I’m hungry!

Recipe Variations:

Want chocolate aebleskivers?  Substitute 1/8 cup cocoa for 1/8 cup flour and continue recipe like normal.

Want savory aebleskivers? How about chive & chevre?  Substitute 1/2 cup fresh chevre for 1/2 cup milk and add 1/2 cup chopped chives.  For other cheese variations, keep milk content the same and add 1/2 cup shredded hard cheese to batter.

yummy aebleskivers, pronounced "able-skivvers" according to my authoritative knowledge!=)